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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
Way back in the 1970s, Enzo Cecconi wowed London’s high society with the novelty of Venetian beef carpaccio and fresh pasta. Numerous incarnations later, this Mayfair institution clearly enraptures its rather more varied clientele. Flexibility is part of the appeal, as the kitchen offers week-round breakfasts, brunches, lunches, dinners and cicchetti (Venetian appetisers).
On a recent visit we asked for a selection of hot and cold dishes, including a seasonal summer truffle pasta, to be brought at the same time – and they were, with impeccable timing. Service proved an efficient, unobtrusive delight throughout, and each course arrived in perfect condition. While the signature fresh pasta replete with truffle oil and shavings of truffle was a highlight, the carpaccio, drizzled with vibrant Ligurian olive oil and flaked with unimpeachable parmesan, came a close second. Pigs’ cheeks were meltingly rich, polenta seductively soft. Silken meatballs and crunchy roast potatoes were clear kid-pleasers, while carafes of quaffable wine kept adults smiling.
On summer days, tables spill on to reasonably secluded pavements; on dark evenings the capacious, elegant bar is warm and inviting. Sumptuous yet relaxed, this old stalwart may well delight Londoners for decades to come.
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