Czechoslovak Restaurant

Time Out says

Thu Jul 12 2012

Ever fallen in love with a place not for the food, but because of the all-round feel-good vibe? Czechs and Slovaks far from home probably really do crave those knedliky dumplings, but the rest of us are attracted by the wistful, nostalgic air. The Czechoslovak occupies a large, slightly scruffy house, where flock wallpaper, amateurish oil paintings and memorials to Czech/Slovak World War II servicemen create a 1970s social club feel. In the friendly bar or adjoining garden enjoy Budvar and Pilsner Urquell on tap, or maybe a bottle of malty dark Budvar. And unless loud, big-screen Czech TV appeals, opt for the more formal front dining room, not the plainer back room. You could start with a deliciously sharp cabbage soup with smoked sausage or sample the brawn or pickled sausage (utopenec). The ubiquitous knedliky are good with beef and a creamed vegetable sauce, or try them with tasty roast goose and sauerkraut. Other choices include chicken and veal schnitzels – uninspiring, but good to soak up the beer. If you’re keen to increase your cholesterol, don’t hold back: a doughy apricot dumpling bathed in yoghurt with cinnamon sugar and whipped cream should do the trick.