The bankers’ champagne bar has had as difficult a year as the rest of the City, leading to the closure of the Canary Wharf branch. Just off the Paternoster Square developments, Dion St Paul’s inhabits a long, low-ceilinged room with the choice between banquettes and high wooden tables.
Beige is the colour and City professionals the game; the drinks list is geared towards groups buying bottles (only three champagnes are sold by the glass). The likes of 2000 Cristal (£350) and 1999 Dom Pérignon (£160) on a Grand Marque-dominated list provide ample opportunity to flash the cash, and this is the only bar in London with a room officially sponsored by Krug.
Jacquart Brut Mosaique (£9.50 a glass) or Louis Roederer Brut (£9.95 a glass – ours was served far too cold) provide some slightly more accessible options.
The menu wanders through the usual wine-bar clichés, from chicken caesar salad to a range of sandwiches and wraps. Salmon fish cakes and cottage pie are typical main courses.