Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Dock Kitchen occupies one floor of furniture designer Tom Dixon’s headquarters, which are in a former warehouse overlooking the Grand Union Canal. The restaurant combines guest chefs and themed, just-discovered-this menus with a casual, café-style vibe evocative of the River Café. Its fans don’t seem to mind that it charges top West End prices for dishes that most of us can easily make from one of chef (and Telegraph cookery columnist) Stevie Parle’s cookbooks.
Current culinary trends and ingredients are used for inspiration, with varying degrees of success. A starter plate of tomato salad (£7.50) was garnished with freekeh, purslane, sumac and ‘flowers from the garden’, the resulting collision of flavours saved by the excellent quality of the ripe, plump tomatoes. £18.50 brought a bowl of watery stew of white fish chunks; this was advertised as coming with clams, but four of the six shells were empty.
The dabbling in oriental cuisines can be similarly hit or miss; our tandoor flatbread was pale and undercooked. Still, the tables outdoors overlooking Innocent drink company HQ across the canal can be a lovely spot on a warm day. Be warned that the restaurant seems perpetually over-subscribed, with frequent table-turning, and note that the Kitchenette bar on the floor below serves drinks and bar food from 5.30pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.
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