Signed photos from many of Britain’s best-loved actors line the walls at l’Etoile, forming a great sea of thespian endorsement that fills every available space. The restaurant itself has been around for over a century, and its aesthetic is firmly of the old school; etched glass, red banquettes and starched linen remain the order of the day.
The food is resolutely classic too: a ham hock terrine starter with apple chutney and sauce vierge is straight from the Left Bank; and a delicate double-baked mushroom soufflé is a well-judged French staple, served with a cool twist of chive crème fraîche. Main courses satisfied without enthralling. A light, fresh salmon and leek fish cake arrived with mushy peas and an endive salad, and corn-fed chicken accompanied by a mini kiev and red wine sauce was hearty yet undistinguished.
There’s more imagination at work in the desserts. A light lemon tart came intriguingly topped with popping candy, and a hefty portion of rice pudding was decked with great shavings of caramelised pineapple. Elena’s faded grandeur and traditional dishes are part of its charm: this is a place for a nostalgic feed rather than an inspiring one.
|Venue name:||Elena's L'Étoile||Contact:|
30 Charlotte Street
|Opening hours:||Lunch served noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri. Dinner served 5-10.30pm Mon-Sat|
|Transport:||Tube: Goodge Street or Tottenham Court Road tube|
|Price:||Main courses £15.75-£20.25. Set meal £20.95 2 courses, £25.95 3 courses|
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Average User Rating
4.8 / 5
- 5 star:3
- 4 star:1
- 3 star:0
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0