Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
In 2011, the Empress lost ‘of India’ from its name along with its previous corporate owners. The all-rounder café/bar/restaurant is now in the hands of a small, dedicated team who are on a mission to turn it into a culinary destination, albeit one with a neighbourhood vibe and pricing.
On the evidence of our last visit, they’re on the way. Chef Elliot Lidstone’s short, unpretentious menu mixes snacks and modern-brasserie dishes for the coffee and drinks crowd with more cheffy dishes. Snails with bone marrow were extremely good, untypically smooth and subtle; braised pork was more interesting than its name, being a roundel of pulled pork with a crust of extreme savouriness served on bulghur wheat. A mysterious absence of side dishes resulted in the veg served beneath good trout being repeated, but at least they were properly seasonal (chard and peas in May).
The large corner room is comfortable, with huge windows, lots of red banquette seating, white walls dotted lightly with art and a long bar, but when weather allows, the outside seating on a wide pavement is where the buzz is. Staff are engaged and engaging, but we recommend waiting for table service rather than ordering drinks at the bar (slower in the long run).
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