We arrived on a rain-lashed Wednesday evening to find this long-standing Putney local positively buzzing. In keeping with its name, Enoteca Turi has a particularly strong all-Italian wine list packed with treasures – our recommendation, an elegant pecorino, was spot-on. Pleasingly, there was none of that over-pouring designed to push diners into a second bottle either. After discovering that both the mozzarella and cuttlefish on the £32.50 set menu had run out, we made a rocky start with under-seasoned grilled squid with chilli, and a fiddly, insubstantial dish of sautéed clams. Mains proved a better bet. Lemon and rocket risotto was fresh, vibrant and perfectly al dente; calf’s liver with sage and speck proved rich and satisfying. Confusion over our final order meant we finished with a delicious almond and ricotta cake from the à la carte at no extra charge. Enoteca Turi’s kitchen could do with more consistency and a few wow factors. The decor feels a little dated too, but the restaurant’s plus points – a convivial atmosphere, great wines, faultless service and a warm heart – are proving a winning formula in a neighbourhood overrun with soulless chains.