Faanoos II

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

This second branch of Faanoos takes the rustic charms of the popular East Sheen original even further. The walls are set with mock Middle Eastern windows and clad with straw that in places peels away to reveal bare brick beneath; there are arches inlaid with turquoise tiles and hung with paintings of rural Iranian life; and shelves are laden with Persian memorabilia, including old teapots, a Tehran number plate and countless variations on the lantern from which the restaurant takes its name. The overall effect can border on the Disney Iran Experience, should such a thing exist, but then authenticity isn’t Faanoos’s strong suit.

The food is cheap even compared to the Iranian restaurant norm, but it’s wise to stick to the standards. A starter of masto khiar (yoghurt with mint and chopped cucumber) is a creamy accompaniment to a basket of taftoon bread hot from the oven, while kebabs are a safe alternative to stews that we’ve sometimes found to be short on meat and under-seasoned. The citrus- and saffron-marinated chicken joojeh and the minced lamb koobideh, served either with rice or wrapped in hot bread, are both reliable.