Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Fri May 31 2013
Three hours in Five Fields. That’s how long we spent over the simplest set dinner at this charming Chelsea townhouse restaurant.
No, the service wasn’t slow: on the contrary, it was attentive and punctual. We were simply having a good time, and those ‘three courses’ (the cheaper of two set menus, at £45), kept on coming.
Diners are encouraged to linger. The dining room is very comfy and sumptuous and no doubt expensively decorated in soothing tones. Solicitous staff bring appetisers, palate cleansers and more ‘amuses’ than you’ll find at Alton Towers.
The supposed three courses were actually a stream of novel tastes, from flavoured breads to canapes, apple sorbets to petits fours. And that’s the £45 menu? It made us wonder what the £65, eight-course one must be like.
Even the entry-level deal offers several choices for each course, plus a ‘rock pool’ starter (for an £8 supplement). More sci-fi than shoreline, its ingredients were presented in two stages on futuristic glassware, to heighten the drama of the inventively prepared morsels of oyster, crab, langoustine and mullet. Another starter, called ‘garden’, was a Peter Rabbit
banquet of veg, herbs and microgreens from the restaurant’s gardens in East Sussex.
Careful sourcing of good ingredients is one thing, skill in cooking with them is another. The Five Fields is equally as accomplished at both. The pan-fried veal sweetbreads, slow-cooked venison, and suckling pig five ways on one dish were presented like artworks with an array of colourful and complementary garnishes.
By the time desserts arrive, you’re no longer startled by combinations such as jerusalem artichoke with peanut butter mousseline and celery granita, or rhubarb-flavoured curd with saffron custard. There is method in their madness.
The Five Fields is far from cheap – yet even at these prices it’s good value, and it’s the perfect special occasion restaurant. The room only seats 40, and is only open for dinner five nights per week (Tuesday-Saturday). So best book well ahead for that marriage proposal, anniversary or birthday treat.
Reviewed by Guy Dimond
Five Fields 8-9 Blacklands Terrace
- Venue phone:
020 7838 1082
- Venue website:
- Opening hours:
Dinner served 6.30-10pm Tue-Sat
Tube: Sloane Square tube
Set meal £45 3 courses, £65 tasting menu (£115 incl wine)
- 8-9 Blacklands Terrace
- 020 7838 1082
- 8-9 Blacklands Terrace
- Five Fields