Restaurants , Snack bars Soho
  • 4 out of 5 stars
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© Rob Greig
Gail's, 2011

A little sister of the other Gail’s scattered across London, this branch of the artisan bakery is fighting its corner, quite literally, in Soho.

The interior decor is a product of the same white/red/grey palette of its siblings, and the zinc-topped counters and exposed lightbulbs parading around the perimeter of the room remind you that Gail’s is taking its arrival in W1 seriously.

Standing united on multi-tiered displays are an interesting mix of baked delicacies, largely inspired by northern or Eastern Europe. On our visit, brioche bases supported well-executed savoury toppings of mushrooms with crisp bacon and roasted cherry tomatoes with goat’s cheese. A cholla bun sucessfully housed salami, pickles, rocket and tomatoes.

Gail’s caters well for the sweeter tooth. The yeasty dough of a sultana kugelhof had a pleasing weight and texture, and a butter icing and carrot cake tower was quickly demolished. Tea and coffee were of the high standards expected; top-quality coffee beans are used, and the staff knew how to operate the La Marzocco espresso machine.

Although the prices of Gail’s baked goods may be prohibitive for some, investing in its food is a rewarding experience.

Venue name: Gail's
Address: 128 Wardour Street
Opening hours: Open 7am-9.45pm Mon-Fri; 8am-9.45pm Sat-Sun
Transport: Tube: Tottenham Court Rd tube
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