Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Fri Jul 20 2012
Although the food here isn’t bad, it’s beside the point, as the Gay Hussar is an institution. Opened in 1953, it has operated as a canteen for Westminster politicians, as well as a useful spot for theatregoers, ever since. The interior is cosy, lined with political memoirs and Martin Rowson’s caricatures.
On a Monday night the crowd included a Labour MP, a Labour Lord, assorted apparatchiks and more than one table of Hungarians. The plate of Hungarian hors d’oeuvres is a good starting point, providing a taste of all the cold starters: highlights include goose and pork pâté, marinated herring in sour cream, cucumber salad, and smoked sausage and salami.
Next comes goulash in various incarnations; the tasty veal goulash arrived with galuska (small dumplings not unlike gnocchi). Best dish of the evening was smoked goose breast with red cabbage and sólet (a bean and meat combo, called cholent in Jewish cuisine) – a rich, well-flavoured feast. Pancakes feature heavily for dessert; a mixed berry pudding (like a slightly grainy, heavy jelly) made a lighter finish. Drinks include Hungarian aperitifs and digestifs, plus a no-nonsense house red. Service is attentive, whether you’re a first-timer, or an old friend.
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