If our informal poll of passers-by on Green Lanes is anything to go by, Gökyüzü is the go-to place for Turkish food in London’s main Turkish neighbourhood. This large, utilitarian restaurant (it doubled in size some years ago) is consistently the busiest place on the strip. It’s clear why: the prices are low, the cooking is excellent, and the portions are generous bordering on reckless. We were almost sated after demolishing a basket of bread cooked in the wood-fired oven and a huge ‘small’ mixed meze dish – highlights being a sprightly kısır loaded with mint and spring onion, a haydari rich with dill, and a fresh-tasting soslu patlıcan (grilled aubergine with tomato sauce). The mains were exceptional. Sarma tavuk beyti featured no less than 15 large pieces of spicy minced chicken wrapped in lavash bread, slathered in tomato sauce and served with yoghurt and pilaf rice. Güveç (lamb and aubergine casserole) had been stewed to tender perfection in an earthenware pot. Service tends to be rushed and the wine list is short (there are only five whites), but you wouldn’t come here for a leisurely drink. Food is the thing at Gökyüzü.