Gowlett

Time Out says

Fri Jul 20 2012

We’re glad to see that a nod from the New York Times as ‘the best off-the-beaten-path pub’ hasn’t gone to the head of this unassuming south London local. The Gowlett remains the same appealing boozer, tucked down a residential street, with its battered banquettes, dim lighting, friendly bar staff, relaxed locals, great ales, pool table, unconventional pub quiz and vinyl-spinning DJs.

What’s still a puzzle is how such a place continues to turn out such great pizzas. A stone-bake oven is part of the explanation, as are the fresh ingredients. The classics are all present – margherita, siciliana and so on – but we relished the house special, the Gowlettini, with its tangy goat’s cheese, pine nuts, prosciutto and mountain of rocket. Garlic bread is a meal in itself, topped with cheese and herbs or anchovies. Bases are of the thin and super-crispy variety, which means the toppings need to speak for themselves. At present the menu is just pizzas, but locally cured meats are promised soon. Desserts – just choc brownie, crumble and/or Jude’s ice-cream – seem an afterthought, but you can’t win ’em all.