10C Bradbury St
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Mon Nov 12 2012
Mother and son Lalita Patel and Urvesh Parvais, currently featured in Madhur Jaffrey’s ‘Curry Nation’ Good Food Channel TV series and cookbook, have been running Gujarati Rasoi as street vendors for a few years, selling the vegetarian dishes of western India at Borough and other food markets. Now they’ve developed their food stalls into this bricks-and-mortar venture.
Despite impressive food, it’s a far from perfect endeavour. The dining room is tiny, noisy and minimal. The menu is confusing: why lump together nibbles, flatbreads, snacks and relishes as ‘smalls’, presumably meaning appetisers, at the top?
The presentation of dishes, too, needs to be given more thought. ‘Mains’ comprising rice, vegetables, dahl or ‘kadhi’ (a yoghurt ‘soup’) are piled atop one another, home-style, making individual flavours indiscernible. Dishes are partially cooked in their commercial kitchen unit elsewhere and finished off in the restaurant, resulting in some being slightly over or undercooked.
Oh, but the food. The short, regularly changing menu included savoury lentil cake ‘ohndhwo’, gherkin-like baby gourd ‘tindora’, and ‘patra’: spirals of colocasia (taro) leaves stuffed with spicy chickpea flour batter. Everything tasted light, bright, sprightly and vibrant; and the chefs’ skill and enthusiasm shone through. The balance of savoury, sweet and tangy flavours was perfect; and the spicing spot-on.
The friendly venue now takes bookings, and has extended its opening hours, so it's now open for lunch/brunch as well as dinner - though not every day.
Gujarati Rasoi 10C Bradbury St
020 8616 7914
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-3.30pm Thur, Fri. Brunch served 10.30am-3.30pm Sat. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm Wed-Sat.
Tube: Dalston Kingsland rail
Meal for two with drinks and service: around £55.
- 10C Bradbury St
- 020 8616 7914
- 10C Bradbury St
- Gujarati Rasoi
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away