Hawksmoor’s easy-going charm appeals to the more relaxed type of City diner (shirtsleeves, no ties), happy to be served by an efficient but casually dressed young crew. The short main menu centres on steak (ribeye, T-bone, porterhouse, fillet, sirloin and more), at serious prices, plus the likes of grilled chicken, lobster with garlic butter, monkfish grilled over charcoal, and a meat-free choice for the odd misplaced vegetarian. If you’re not on expenses, pay heed to the 'express menu', where the delectably charred ribeye comes in a 250g size (more than enough for most people’s appetites, especially when paired with the triple-cooked chips). Roughly textured potted smoked mackerel (served in a little pot, with dill-heavy cucumber alongside) made a nice contrast as a starter – although an equally good kick-off is one of Hawksmoor’s renowned cocktails. Puddings range from ice-creams (a scoop of peach sorbet was tip-top) to calorific delights such as gooey peanut butter shortbread, served with salted caramel ice-cream. The wine list allows room for City excesses, but also has a decent choice by the glass. The basement premises at this branch are better suited to the winter months, when the sea of brown – leather, extensive wood panelling – is comforting rather than stifling.