Attracting Wapping residents as well as tourists over the years, Il Bordello often sees queues out of the door during the week. Despite its position at the bottom of one of Wapping’s modernised brick wharfs, you could be taking a step back into the 1990s here – complete with tables covered in plastic cloths, and napkins carefully curled into wine glasses. The food, complemented by an all-Italian wine list, is similarly straightforward.
A starter of parma ham and melon was simple and delicious, the portion more than ample for the price, though the bread used for a bruschetta was a touch too dry. Gigantic pizzas topped with time-tested combinations are a strength; we enjoyed a mix of bresaola, rocket and parmigiana. Another highlight was a perfectly cooked veal chop slathered in a rich sage butter sauce and accompanied by roast potatoes.
This traditional style might not appeal to all modern sensibilities, but it’s hard not to be won over by the convivial atmosphere and jovial team of waistcoated Italian gents. Il Bordello delivers what so many other restaurants lack: a touch of old-fashioned Italian charm.