White Bear Yard
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Tue Jun 26 2012
This Chinatown landmark was once among the area’s smartest Cantonese restaurants, complete with a grand entrance and even a little bridge over a carp pond. The years, however, haven’t been kind. The plump carp remain, but the ‘contemporary’ fixtures now look rather tired. The cooking has also lost its sparkle.
On our visit, several dim sum arrived either tepid or slightly shrivelled, indicating they might have been left loitering before serving. There were other own-goals: the char siu filling in our cheung fun was overwhelmed by the thickness of the dough, while a glutinous rice parcel (wrapped in lotus leaf, then steamed) was a little bland, though the texture was spot-on.
Not that there weren’t moments of brilliance: from the perfection of a steamed prawn and chive dumpling, with its delicate, shimmering pastry case and aromatic, bouncy filling; to moreish vietnamese spring rolls, the crunchy, golden deep-fried casing giving way to a dense, meaty centre.
Factor-in the low prices for dim sum, and you can still have a decent, inexpensive lunch here, raising a cup of well-brewed oolong to the glory days. The full menu (which includes a vegetarian set meal) majors in seafood.
Imperial China White Bear Yard
- Cross Street:
25A Lisle Street
020 7734 3388
- Opening hours:
Meals served noon-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 11.30am-10.30pm Sun. Dim sum served noon-5pm daily
Tube: Leicester Square or Piccadilly Circus tube
Main courses £8.50-£32.50. Dim sum £2.60-£4. Set meal £19-£35 per person (minimum 2). Minimum £10
- White Bear Yard
- 020 7734 3388
- White Bear Yard
- Imperial China
Food and drink
Eating and drinking facilities. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
Business. Going in a group. Late night
- Type of event: