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Time Out says
Posted: Tue Apr 8 2014
Obscure locations are all the rage when it comes to Nordic cuisine. One of the top restaurants in Sweden – Fäviken – is so remote that an overnight stay is a near-obligatory part of the experience.
A trip to Mile End might not sound like nearly such an undertaking, but as we meandered from the tube, through a park, along the canal and on to a residential street filled with building work, it didn’t seem like the kind of place you’d expect to find London’s latest modernist restaurant either.
The location’s not the only unusual thing about Ink. Chef Martyn Meid might be dealing in smears, foams and powders, but this Lithuanian chef’s food is cheaper than London’s other modernist menus, with mains costing a reasonable £8.50-£16.
Nominally inspired by Scandinavian cooking, Meid creates artistically presented dishes with nods to seasonality. A sculptural starter of seared scallops served on a subtle peach purée, then scattered with petal-shaped charred baby onion layers, specks of crushed crackling and purple pansies was the belle of the ball with impressive textures and flavours to match its beauty.
A main of salt cod with ‘tomato textures’ was also easy on the eye, but less exciting to eat, with surprisingly little salt left in the cod or in the accompanying potatoes. A more rustic dish of savoury braised lamb with savoy cabbage made for warming winter fodder.
Ink maybe isn’t the kind of place you’d brave mountains and forests for, but if you can manage to negotiate a park and a canal, it’s well worth it.
By Celia Plender
We combine the beauty of nature, with distinct flavours and rich textures, sourcing fresh produce locally within the East End of London.
Headed by Chef Martyn Meid, Ink was established in April 2014.
Originating from a small port town, Martyn has mastered the craft of Nordic cuisine, having a unique approach to curing, pickling and smoking meat and fish.
The menu is developed along with the season, Martyn’s uses of ingredients create exceptional dishes both in taste and presentation.
Celebrating the true beauty of ingredients Martyn manipulates them to create enticing dishes found on the menu, including 148h salted cod topped with tomato textures, in which he dehydrates and smokes the tomatoes, served alongside confit potatoes drizzled with lemon oil.
The true concept of Ink lies in the definition, each dish has an artistic element to it, Martyns philosophy in his approach to each dish is to connect people with space, plate and emotion.
Ink 44 Palmers Road
- Venue phone:
- Venue website:
- Opening hours:
Open 6-10.30pm Tue-Thur; noon-10.30pm Fri-Sat; noon-9pm Sun
Mile End tube
Meal for two with drinks and service: around £80.
- 44 Palmers Road
- 8983 6634
- 44 Palmers Road