Local favourite the Junction was sold in early 2013 to Camden Bars, but little has changed from its decade under the previous owners. The pub is still divided in two, with the dark red restaurant and open kitchen on the Fortess Road side, and a bar room on the other (where the counter is amply decorated with handpulls, including a couple of Wandles, Hopback TEA and Black Sheep Ale). This leads into an ample rear conservatory, which is nicely lit after dark. Vintage Bob Dylan on the stereo lends a pleasantly lived-in feel to the bar, while the eating area tends to fill rapidly at around 8pm with a mix of couples, families and groups of friends.
The menu has a mid-European twang – salmon and cucumber here, a strudel there – but is rather unambitious. Parsnip soup with pear turned out to be a bit thin, with the pear just a blob of purée dropped in. But mushroom risotto, and pork and mash with green beans and apple were decent enough, even if the meat was a tad dry and the crackling rather chewy. The standout dish, though, was the very red smoked salmon, with a nice bite to its horseradish cream. A fine pub, but no longer a pacesetter.