Fusion maestro Peter Gordon (of the Providores & Tapa Room) co-owns this handily located, stylish all-dayer. He oversees an exciting and well-executed menu that runs from breakfast to dinner, with missteps a rarity. Turkish eggs (poached eggs with yoghurt, hot chilli butter and flatbread) – a favourite from the Tapa Room – makes a welcome appearance on brunch and breakfast menus.
Lunch features weighty sandwiches (steak on focaccia with caramelised onion, mustard cream cheese, roast tomatoes and pickles) and burgers (soft-shell crab burger with Asian salad, spicy peanut mayonnaise and avocado), alongside salads (belper knolle cheese, roast grapes, mixed leaves, pickled ceps, walnuts and black vinegar dressing) and a selection of more inventive dishes. Many of these also appear as large or small plates on the evening menu.
Pan-fried sea bream with broccolini, rainbow chard, coconut coriander chutney and paprika crumbs is a typical main – quality produce, imaginatively teamed. There’s the occasional disappointment (a slightly flabby serving of deep-fried sesame and Urfa chilli salted squid with sumac mayo, for example), but you’ll never be bored.
Smiling staff are attentive and clued-up about the menu, which changes monthly. A wide-ranging wine list is buttressed by an eclectic set of cocktails, and even the modish brasserie-style decor globe-trots, very prettily in the case of the Turkish floor tiles.