La Bota

Time Out says

Wed Jan 27 2010

There are no surprises in store at this unassuming neighbourhood restaurant, culinary or otherwise. Traditional tapas dominate the menu, guitar-plucking Gypsy Kings-style songs play on rotation, and the sunny-yellow walls are adorned with tasteful prints from modern masters (an all-Spanish line-up, naturally). On our last visit, even the illegibly scribbled specials board bore a whiff of déjà vu – most dishes seemed like slightly tweaked renditions of those on the lengthy main menu. As a dependable local eaterie, though, La Bota is a success. Service is efficient and obliging, delivering a quick succession of competently cooked classics: rabbit and celery casserole; a filling, meaty fabada (white beans with pork, morcilla and chorizo); sliced aubergine with manchego and creamy white sauce; and tender-tentacled baby squid, cooked with red pepper, chilli, tomato and wine. Not every dish was stellar (sautéed spinach with chickpeas, garlic and onions was unpleasantly watery), but the inexpensive wine list (containing plenty of bottles under £15) soothed over any jarring notes. Judging by the turnover of tables and contented hum of conversation, the formula suits locals perfectly; we can’t see things changing round here any time soon.