Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
Nothing is out of place at this Chiswick stalwart, from the inch-perfect positioning of the wine glasses to the soothing grey-brown interior to the impeccable modern French food from chef Anthony Boyd.
In business for over a decade, it’s part of a winning triumvirate owned by Bruce Poole and Nigel Platts-Martin (the others are Chez Bruce in Clapham and the Glasshouse in Kew). The tablecloths may be starched, but not the atmosphere – as typified by the (mainly French) waiting staff. Crisp in their black aprons and ties, they were professional, knowledgeable and genuinely friendly.
The fixed-price menu keeps things simple, but not cheap – all around us people were clearly celebrating. A recent meal was close to perfection, from a zingy, Asian-accented starter of seared tuna loin with a soy, sesame and citrus dressing to a refreshing finish of strawberry sherbet (halfway between sorbet and ice-cream) with black pepper meringue. In between came slow-roast pork belly with morteau sausage and earthy trompettes; and pan-fried black bream – moist flesh, crisp skin – with truffled creamy mash and a wonderfully complex sauce that involved smoked anchovy, brown shrimp, tiny capers and morello cherries.
Thanks to head sommelier Matthieu Longeure, this is also a restaurant for wine lovers, with a wide-ranging list that’s particularly strong on regional France.
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