One of London’s most highly regarded Italian chefs, Giorgio Locatelli was recently seen on BBC2’s Italy Unpacked communicating a deep connection to his country’s food and drink with engaging brio. It shows in the menu here, which ranges voraciously through styles, regions and ingredients (some little known). There’s technique aplenty, but it’s food made to be relished as well as admired. Among the many pasta dishes we’ve enjoyed: lasagnetti with salt cod, anchovies and capers, tagliatelle richly sauced with goat kid and chilli, and gnocchetti with mushroom and generous quantities of black truffle. Milky-soft suckling pig with mash, and disappearingly tender calf’s sweetbreads with jerusalem artichokes are some of the most memorable meat options. The comfortable but beigy hotel-restaurant surrounds allow the food to take centre stage, but on this occasion our overall experience lacked the buzz the cooking deserved. Staff were only just this side of invisible, and not always in a good way, particularly when we needed help with the wine list. That, however, is a positively educational survey of Italy’s regions, with good choices, particularly of dessert wines, by the glass.