One of London’s most highly regarded Italian chefs, Giorgio Locatelli recently saw his restaurant closed following a gas explosion, soon after having it refurbed at a cost of £1.2 million. Undeterred by this, he has reopened on the same site. The menu is just as before, ranging voraciously through styles, regions and ingredients (some little known). There’s technique aplenty, but it’s food made to be relished as well as admired. Among the many pasta dishes we’ve enjoyed: lasagnetti with salt cod, anchovies and capers, tagliatelle richly sauced with goat kid and chilli, and gnocchetti with mushroom and generous quantities of black truffle. Milky-soft suckling pig with mash, and disappearingly tender calf’s sweetbreads with jerusalem artichokes are some of the most memorable meat options. The comfortable surrounds allow the food to take centre stage. Thwe wine list is a positively educational survey of Italy’s regions, with good choices, particularly of dessert wines, by the glass.