Locanda Locatelli
Locanda Locatelli
Celia Topping
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>5/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
The menu here contained none of the dishes we ate last year, a tribute to the restless, energetic spirit of chef Giorgio Locatelli. He oversees imaginative Italian cooking that has few peers in London, and despite his increasing prominence as a media star he remains committed to keeping his flagship restaurant fresh. You can order anything here and know that it’s going to be outstanding.
The approach is essentially simple: take the best ingredients and combine them with good taste and very great respect. Witness perfectly executed starters, a green bean salad with roasted red onion, parmesan and almonds, and a sublimely creamy purée of salt cod with a polenta crisp and a beautiful small salad. Pasta dishes were top-notch, especially busiate (own-made spirals) alla Trapanese, which used the Sicilian pesto variation: tomatoes, olives, capers, anchovies, mint and almonds.
If the place has a fault, it’s the prices, with not so much as a set lunch to soften the impact: mains such as roast monkfish with walnut and caper sauce, or roast organic chicken with grilled vegetables hover either side of £30. But the wine list can soften the hammer-blow to your credit card: as always, there are low-priced glasses available and a handful of bottles below or around £30. Some people don’t care for the international-hotel decor but they should just look at each other, and at some of the best Italian food in London.
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