Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Thu Apr 5 2012
It’s a step change for Broadway Market as its raffish independent eating and drinking houses are joined by this rather more engineered operation from Hugo Warner. Warner used to be the man behind the Benugo group, which has something of an armlock on museum catering in the capital, as well as a six-strong café chain and the BFI concessions.
Market Café takes a leaf out of the casual-dining handbook, with an unhurried, friendly vibe and a brief, toothsome and clever menu. It offers up mainly Italian food, with savouries for snackers (truffled rarebit, white onion soup, kidneys on toast) doubling as preludes for mains such as leek and Cheddar pie or shoulder of lamb.
Goat’s curd on toast (bread is from the E5 Bakehouse) served with prosciutto worked well, though the ham was bafflingly bereft of fat. Agretti (a marsh plant) with a duck egg, sat on a puddle of olive oil that worked perfectly in a delicious combination. Fish stew was decent, even though the rouille-spread hunk of bread standing as a crouton bulked up the volume a bit too much for us.
Generally, given the carefully casual surroundings – Formica tables, enamel bowls, retro light fittings – prices are a bit high. But the area’s loungey clientele like that kind of casualness. The staff are accommodating and there’s a little counter for lone diners, a bar up front and some pavement tables – all rammed at weekend peak times.
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