This steak-centred outlet of the Gordon Ramsay empire sells some fine food. A starter of tender salt and sichuan-pepper squid: very good. Aberdeen Angus ribeye steak: excellent. Slow-cooked pork belly with roast sweet potatoes and chilli-blazing pickled cabbage: outstanding. Great ingredients beautifully cooked. But there were numerous negatives too on our recent visit. One is the expense if you eat steak. A 10oz ribeye costs £32 and comes with not a single extra; it sat in solitary splendour on its wooden plank. Another is the wine list, which offers almost nothing under £30 a bottle. Another is the service, which was almost heroically inattentive at times. We waited five minutes just to be offered a glass of water or a menu, even though waiting staff passed by several times. The large, sparely decorated room with hardwood seating is attractive enough, but it doesn’t quite manage to feel comfortable or cosy – especially with thumping background music. Talk of arbitrage at the neighbouring table made us feel that this is a place for Mayfair Maserati-drivers. For the rest of us, however good some of the food may be, Maze Grill is just not special enough to merit the expense.