There’s a lot going on beind the scenes at this handsome but unassuming corner site. From bread-making to meat aging, staff are very hands-on, and properly interested in provenance and seasonality. A tempting menu runs from bar snacks (cobnut saucisson, cornichons and onions) and seafood (oysters, brown crab on toast) to hefty mains such as grilled Galloway rib with horseradish. Fish and chips is a menu constant, though the fish regularly changes (pouting on our visit).
Execution can falter: a starter of cured char with new potatoes and dill sounded alluring but could have done with more of the herb, while a main of grilled abalone tuna was a fine piece of fish clumsily cooked (frazzled at the edge, almost raw at the middle). Spit-roast Middle White pork with creamy ‘beer onions’ was better – tasty and with good crackling, and we wolfed down a delicate elderflower jelly with strawberry sauce.
An interesting selection of drinks includes cocktails (the Spritzrovia features rhubarb purée, Aperol and prosecco), sherries by the glass and Crate Brewery bitter on draught alongside a well-organised wine list. Staff are charming and on-the-ball. All in all, an ideal local (they even offer brunch at the weekend), surprisingly located in W1.