Palmerston

Time Out says

Tue Jun 26 2012

Eight or so years after reckoning East Dulwich was ready to embrace the gastropub trend, the team behind the Palmerston – notably ex-Bibendum head chef Jamie Younger –are justified in considering their handsome establishment a community stalwart.

Declaring the provenance of the carefully sourced produce and the hanging age of the beef clearly goes down well with the customers, judging by the buzz on an early weekday evening. Both the banquette-lined bar area and the more formal wood-panelled room with its church chairs offer the same robust ‘Brit-Med’ menu, alongside decent real ales and a sound selection of wines by the glass.

While certain dishes (such as Galloway Short Horn ribeye) are mainstays, others reflect seasonality. On our late spring visit, wild garlic greens featured prominently alongside British asparagus, morel mushrooms and Jersey Royals. Sauces, condiments and garnishes pack a punch, and the olive-packed breads hold their own too. Desserts exhibit a lighter touch, whether modern or retro; arctic roll proved an irresistible medley of light sponge, creamy vanilla ice and tart berry preserve.

The eclectic music may owe much to the ‘Secret DJ’ trend; exhibits by local artists provide more welcome distraction.