Restaurants

There are six branches of Feng Sushi across London. All combine a busy takeaway and delivery service with eat-in dining. The Chalk Farm branch is light and airy (other branches can feel cramped); service is relaxed and helpful. The menu contains a wide range of maki and some interesting nigiri, such as line-caught mackerel or gravadlax with pesto, as well as ‘value boxes’ (nigiri selections and bentos), plus a few cooked dishes. Of these, baby squid tempura was hot and crisp, served with piquant pickled cucumber slices. The range of sashimi is limited, but our ‘new style’ sea bass, dressed with chilli, sesame oil, coriander and sesame seeds, broke the tuna-salmon mould. The flavours were well judged and the presentation lovely, but the sea bass was thickly sliced and a bit tough. Nevertheless, it was hard to fault the seasonal special of ‘rearranged yellowtail upside down’: discs of cucumber topped with succulent raw yellowtail, avocado, wakame (seaweed) salad, chopped jalapeño and coriander, zapped with chilli sauce. Vegetarians and vegans aren’t forgotten here. There are a few tempting meat- and fish-free maki and salads; brown rice avocado maki were fine.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008