Restaurants

The Wolseley has always had that one commodity that money can’t buy: glamour. It emanates from the grand and gorgeous 1920s room, the battalions of beautifully turned-out waiters, the clink and shine of the table-settings, and the sense that everyone in here, yourself included, could be in a 1950s film. On this year’s visit, though, the illusion was punctured by a 20-minute wait for a (booked) table, no apology given. Part of the Wolseley’s European grand-café schtick is to offer a variety of eating and drinking options: crustacea and caviar, cocktails and coffees, breakfast and afternoon tea, sandwiches and sundaes. On the more casual offerings, it succeeds brilliantly. On the lunch and dinner menu, however, the Euro eclecticism (a classic from every cuisine) can be unappealing to the adventurous, and the cooking doesn’t always compensate. A chicken salad was merely so-so, roast pork belly dreary, and pea risotto actively disappointing: only the pre-prepared foie gras and chicken liver parfait was good. No one comes for the food alone, of course; in fact, our guess is that most people are here for an occasion of some kind. That said, at its best the Wolseley can elevate even a solo cup of coffee to the status of an occasion. It just needs to make sure that it doesn’t get lazy.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008