Restaurants

Named after Addis Ababa’s bustling Merkato, the city’s main trading area, this unpretentious restaurant does its best to remain loyal to its Ethiopian roots despite being located on a bleak stretch of the Caledonian Road. The simple red-and-white interior is suffused with the aroma of incense, the walls hung with Amharic tapestries and Ethiopian portraits. This is very much a venue for dinner, rather than lunch. The food, all served on the traditional round tray of injera, can be hit and miss. Lega tibs (lamb cubes cooked in green pepper and onion) was a delight, meltingly tender in the mouth. But the sweetish mix of spices simply swamped any fish flavour in the assa wot (fish curry), and the ayib begomen – a blend of spinach and cottage cheese – was far too salty. On the plus side, it’s rare to find own-made tej (tangy honey wine, served in a round-bottomed flask) in London. And you can’t fault Merkato’s prices.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009