Restaurants

The uninitiated can sometimes get their Horn of Africa restaurants confused, but this is never likely to happen with Adulis, which positively flaunts its Eritrean nationality. The light and airy restaurant is decorated with framed photographs of Eritrea’s old Italian railway, a plaque to the camel (the national emblem), and a mounted pair of the simple rubber sandals worn by Eritrean rebels during their war of independence. For diners with strong nerves, goe s’nigh (green chillies stuffed with onion) makes for a bracing starter. To follow, a classic range of meat stews and pulses, served on an injera base, competes with fish and seafood from the Red Sea. Adulis also offers kitfo (beef in ghee butter, either lightly cooked or raw, according to taste). There’s plenty of Asmara beer to cool hot mouths and the bar also serves honey wine and zibib, Eritrea’s version of absinthe. Adulis’s speedy service, contemporary surroundings and fresh ingredients make it one of London’s best Horn of Africa restaurants, which may explain the steady stream of both Eritrean and western customers through its doors, even midweek.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009