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The Diner
 
How do you sex up American food in the wake of all the bad press? If you thought it couldn’t be done, take a look at this artfully reconstructed US diner newly arrived in Soho. A calculated hotchpotch of retro styles gives the place the air of knowing irony needed to maintain credibility among its trendy neighbours. A fun and friendly attitude, ample space, great drinks and hearty, good-quality scoff also help the Diner compete. It’s a rare pleasure to eat a burger that tastes as if you’ve just made it yourself, with no trace of mass production or mechanical preparation. Such was our delight as we bit into the pleasingly amorphous patty that came with cheese, bacon, fresh leaves and a good, firm bun. Some crunchy-out, fluffy-in chips scattered with cajun spice, and a moreish red cabbage coleslaw provided worthy sides. ‘Mexican breakfast’ from the all-day breakfast menu was a filling plate of scrambled eggs, guacamole, refried beans, salsa and chorizo lardons. Only a weak, watery bloody mary let the side down; we shouldn’t have shunned the house cocktail menu. But overall, this is a first-rate supplier of straight-down-the-line, unfussy comfort food and drink.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
Services:
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: booster seats; children's portions
Outdoor tables: 7, pavement
Takeaway service: Takeaway service
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