Restaurants

Sitting lazily on a sunny afternoon, martini in hand, surrounded by grown-up buff leather, zebrano wood and lustrous glass panels, gazing out across Grosvenor Square’s soft green canopy of plane trees – you might conclude that Maze enjoys one of London’s loveliest locations. The proximity of the US Embassy ensures a constant flow of babbling office folk along with their food-savvy visitors, all eager to catch a glimpse of Britain’s most talkative chef. Yet though the name on the door is Ramsay’s, the kitchen belongs to Jason Atherton: a man with a similar god complex and eye for perfection. We were given some distinctly rancid butter, but chef relayed word back to us that it was supposed to taste so. Otherwise, we had difficulty faulting much from Maze’s lengthy menu of tapas-sized dishes. Our small but perfectly formed portions of artichoke velouté with cep brioche, and crisp-skinned bass with lobster risotto and lemongrass glaze were spellbindingly sumptuous. So too was a combination of Berkshire pork loin and belly, enhanced by an apple and cardamom purée and a bittersweet jasmine reduction. Being free to order as much or as little of what you fancy is a real treat, since you can dine at lunchtime and still have energy to face the rest of the working (or shopping) day. Just one small thing: if the butter is unpasteurised, why wasn’t the pregnant lady on the next table told?

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008