• Mon Plaisir

     
  • A more French-looking restaurant it’s hard to imagine: outside, a whopping tricolour; inside, four snug little niches of Gaulish glory decked with Gauloise ads, an old Métro map, bric-a-brac by the cartload and a honeyed glow straight out of Montmartre. Claiming to be London’s oldest French restaurant, Mon Plaisir is powerfully evocative – and still disappointing. Though the staff are many, there’s a distinct fluster in the service: cutlery shoved aside with the plate and an artful doodle of sauce unapologetically smudged before our eyes; a waitress who wouldn’t give us her undivided attention; the bill that listed a dish at a higher price than the menu. The food, bistro fare, is so-so. Ravioles de royan were tasty, and entrecôte well cooked; from the specials menu, lamb with a herb ‘crust’ (soggy) came with good broad beans in a thyme sauce; lobster feuilleté was startlingly bland. Not a word of French did we hear among the diners, and there’s your clue; this could be a great place, but at present it simply isn’t making enough of an effort.

  • Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008

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  • Details

  • 19-21 Monmouth Street, Covent Garden, WC2H 9DD
  • Tel: 020 7836 7243
  • www.monplaisir.co.uk
  • Category: French
  • Travel: Covent Garden tube
  • Times: Meals served noon-11.15pm Mon-Fri; 5.45-11.15pm Sat
  • Price: Main courses £13.95-£22. Set lunch £14.50 2 courses, £16.50 3 courses. Set meal (5.45-7pm Mon-Sat; after 10pm Mon-Thur) £13.50 2 courses, £15.50 3 courses incl glass of wine and coffee
  • Credit cards: AmEx, MC, V
  • Services:
    • Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
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