Restaurants

Riva continues to attract crowds of vaguely famous locals, and visitors from across town, to its classy and understated (if slightly cramped) dining room. The food is simple fare from north-eastern Italy, prepared with fastidious attention to detail and superb ingredients. Sublime seafood in the guise of tender grilled baby squid simply dressed in an olive oil and herb sauce, or an equally simple octopus salad was just one of the highlights of our meal. Meat-eaters are catered for with appealing choices that include butter-soft roast suckling pig or melt-in-the-mouth lamb. Service is unfussy and competent, and staff are happy to help diners navigate the outstanding all-Italian wine list, which (like the menu) is skewed towards the north-east of Italy. Even the best Italian establishments can at times fall flat with an unimaginative dessert list, but not Riva. Fregolotta (a wonderfully crumbly cake from Veneto) served with mascarpone cheese was an exciting surprise. Moreish chocolate budino or zingy blood-orange sorbet provided lighter alternatives to round off our perfect meal.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008