Restaurants

Despite spectacular arrays of fresh flowers at either end of the room, Riva’s decor is a tad gloomy. Deep colours and high ambient lighting produce a Magritte-ish dimness at table level that cries out for candles. Service was immensely charming and informative; the menu inviting and dotted with classic dishes and unusual specialities of Lombardy, homeland of owner, Andrea Riva. We began with the unmissable antipasto for two (£20): a dazzling platter of San Daniele ham and pears, bresaola, coppa, speck and fegato d’oca (goose liver) dressed with syrupy balsamic, delicious fruit mostarda, cornmeal pancakes with speck and asiago cheese, and pickled vegetables (pickled celeriac was a novel delight). All the ingredients were fresh and flavoursome – there was even a basket of unbrowned toast as the perfect foil for the goose liver. Mains of roast lamb cutlets with roast potatoes and peppers, and roast rabbit and artichokes with mashed potatoes were faultless and filling, but we still felt forced to sample their splendid desserts – prunes and blackberries in grappa with cinnamon ice-cream, and panna cotta with fig compote. Wonderful.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009