Restaurants

Completing a chic trio of restaurants run by Nigel Platts-Martin and Bruce Poole, La Trompette is deservedly popular. The linen-covered tables in the neutrally toned dining room were packed with wealthy diners on a Tuesday night. Service was unusually slow (a chef had fallen ill), but the food, full of intense flavour, just about made up for the wait. Vividly fresh seared tuna, enhanced with sesame and coriander and tingling with wasabi, set the standard; it was equalled by a more classic boudin blanc with Madeira sauce, flecked with pistachios. Mains were even better. Rosy pink veal was fantastic at every mouthful, its juices soaking into a bright broad bean, morel and asparagus risotto; tender lamb rump with braised peas was equally fine. The wait slightly took the edge off our appetite for an eggy crème brûlée, and its rhubarb layer seemed to have lost some tartness, though a lime and tequila sorbet was deliciously sharp. The wine list, brought by an admirably patient sommelier, is extensive, even outside France. There’s an interesting selection by the glass, but more choice under £30 would be useful. In January 2008 La Trompette was awarded its first Michelin star, showing recognition from the other side of La Manche.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008