Restaurants

By Janet Zmroczek

Tatra’s decor – dark wood tables, leather upholstery and bare walls punctuated by abstract canvases, an enticingly gleaming bar – is anything but folksy. The Polish menu also embraces modernity, giving trad dishes a lighter touch that is more redolent of Baltic or Wódka than London’s more down-home Polish restaurants.

Midweek, Tatra was quiet – but a cheery, efficient waitress and a few occupied tables made for a good relaxed vibe. But what an incongruous soundtrack – rock on, David Essex.

The menu arrives with a plate of bread and smalec, seasoned pork lard (beware, vegetarians – it’s easily mistaken for houmous in the dim candle light). Starters include the usual barszcz (clear beetroot soup), herring and apple salad, leniwe (gnocchi-like dumplings) and so on.

King-size sauerkraut and wild mushroom pierogi were tantalisingly soft and tender, gently fried to add an edge of crispness. Light, puffy blini come with a choice or combination of sour cream and smoked salmon, marinated herring, aubergine caviar or smooth beetroot purée as you might expect.

A main course of beef gulasz was robust, the meat meltingly tender in a paprika-infused stew of real depth of reduced tomato and spice flavours. Char-grilled rump of lamb with aubergines and gently spiced yoghurt dressing were excellent, the lamb with a blackened crust revealing succulent moist pinkness. Sides of rough-crushed potato and cwikla – grated beetroot with horseradish – were suitably hearty.

Portions are large, but try to leave room for puddings – sweet cheese pancakes or apple strudel with raspberry coulis. There are interesting vodkas and a few Polish bottled beers – Zywiec, Tyskie etc. Begin with Siwucha (dry old-style rye vodka with barley) and elegant Debowa (grain spirit with a tinge of oak) and round off with delectable frozen home-infused strawberry and pear vodkas.

Time Out London Issue 2011: March 5-11 2009