Restaurants

Mama’s home cooking is a pillar of the cuisine, so it’s not surprising that most Greek restaurants aspire to create a homely, intimate feel. Andy’s Taverna is similar to several other venues in the vicinity, but it does have a refreshingly sedate atmosphere. The premises are set away from the cacophony of central Camden, so the cavernous low-key interior provides a haven for regulars who can while away hours here. Low wooden beams and the odd photo of the Greek islands provide a measure of nostalgia, but nothing overwhelming – in stark contrast to the in-house pianist who we were seated by, and who began with a race through Zorba.Our meal also proved oddly contrasting. Enticing fresh produce made up the artichoke, broad bean and village salads, but they were sparsely seasoned. Another starter, king prawns, was bland. Outstanding star of the meal was the stifádo. The beef in rich onion and red wine sauce struck the perfect balance between spiciness and tenderness. Grilled swordfish, delicately herbed, fresh and meaty, was also finely executed. Prices are quite high, though portions are generous. Traditional orange filo spirit is served gratis as a digestif.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008