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Located on a genteel side street, this first-floor Pakistani restaurant has been serving pricey curries to wealthy Belgravia residents for more than three decades. Colonial-style decor twinkling chandeliers, geometrical grilles on windows, and weighty table-linen lends it a Raj vibe. Even the service team has a restrained, old-school feel. Salloos is renowned for its kebabs. Our succulent tandoori chops, well-steeped in garlicky yoghurt, were deliciously smoky and cooked to the right pinkness, but the hefty price tag left us blushing too. Tender chicken tikka morsels, interspersed with seared peppers on a long skewer, didnt match this, but they were reprieved by a pleasant tangy ginger coating. A fragrant pilau (basmati rice simmered in cardamom-scented lamb stock) scored top marks for subtle spicing and fluffy texture. Low points included a disappointing main course of oversized chicken koftas, surrounded by a lacklustre moat of tomato masala. Opt for meat grills as safe bets, and look elsewhere if youre vegetarian.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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