Restaurants

Despite a menu and furnishings that have changed very little over the years, the standards at Harbour City remain reliably high. Try to get a table on the airy first floor, rather than the cramped ground level, which has little natural light. We did, and were comfy enough in a room sporting wood-laminate or pastel-yellow walls, white linen on the tables and windows looking out over Gerrard Street's Chinatown arch. Best of the snacks on offer were the crisp taro croquettes enclosing juicy minced pork, though we also relished the delectably gelatinous meat in the five-spice beef tendon, and the juxtaposition of sponginess and springiness in the fish maw with minced prawn paste. Throw in some steamed whelks in curry sauce, and the odd glutinous rice roll (doughy exterior with a chewy filling) and we left happy.

Time Out Cheap Eats in London Guide 2007