Restaurants

There are four compelling reasons to dine at the Don. One is the atmospheric basement bistro, a brick-vaulted space that was formerly the cellars of Sandeman port house, the owners. Second is the wine list, one of London’s best – and never a better bargain than on Friday nights, when every bottle over £50 is half price. Third is hunger: the Don will conquer even the most ravenous appetite. And fourth, though slightly less compelling, is the food. The menu sticks to classic ideas, and mostly carries them off with skill. Our starters were pleasing: a straightforward terrine, grilled prawns on tabouleh, poached duck egg on delicious polenta. A ‘cappuccino’ soup of jerusalem artichokes and wild mushrooms was too creamy given the gargantuan serving, but delicious. Mains were fine, if not perfect. Grilled lamb burgers came cooked as ordered, with the same excellent chips that accompanied a perfectly cooked steak. Confit duck leg with cabbage and mash was as it should have been. Flaws appeared in sloppy presentation; the mangetout accompanying that steak, for instance, shouldn’t have been underneath it. Service was somewhat remote and perfunctory: a few more smiles, please. Flaws apart, the Don is good value in this area – and Friday nights, with more of the globe-trotting wine list within striking distance, are a strong attraction.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009