Restaurants

Offering 32 wines by the glass, the Don is a great friend to sherry and port lovers. It is owned by Sandeman and occupies the firm’s 200-year-old former cellars. We were disappointed, then, that the engaging French sommelier seemed better versed in his own country’s wines. Food aims to complement the excellent wine list, but sometimes, what sounds good on paper turns out to be overly sweet and rich. Our meal started well. A foie gras and duck confit terrine was rich and earthy, perfectly punctuating its sauternes jelly. Roasted quail on a mushroom gateau was delicious too. But a main of expertly seared sea bass served with a crunchy potato galette and spinach was unforgivably marred by too-sweet sherried aubergine. Staff are supremely solicitous, yet can seem omnipresent. Order forms on each table for the company’s New Zealand wine range added an unnecessary commercial note to proceedings. Eat in the basement bistro with its vaulted brick walls to appreciate the building’s history; here the menu is enticing, but simpler and cheaper. The ground-floor restaurant is cluttered with garish abstract art, distracting customers from the beautiful high ceilings. Friday evening wine promotions are worth considering, including a half-price offer on bottles over £50.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008