Restaurants

Taking its cue from the quiet, elegant Primrose Hill location, Manna emits an easy composure and attracts a similarly relaxed clientele. The atmosphere is set by low lighting and light wood. We’ve had fabulous meals here in the past, but were disappointed on our latest foray. A sushi starter was let down by gummy rice and chewy seaweed. Moroccan briouat triangles were wrapped in good filo, but the filling of kasha (roasted buckwheat) and tempeh (similar to beancurd) was offputtingly bitter. The least successful dishes were the ones trying to emulate meaty textures: for instance, a smoky tofu pâté accompanying an aubergine main course that went largely uneaten. The well-executed tempura batter and highly savoury white miso sauce were better. Chef Matthew Kay is planning a Manna cookbook, so perhaps these blips on the regularly changing menu are the result of experimentation. Certain details, such as a deeply luscious red wine reduction and the intricate presentation of dishes, prove there is real skill at work. Safer dishes to try include tortillas and salads, which come piled high.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008