Restaurants

Following a refurb, Manna seems keen to shed any old-fashioned notions of what vegetarianism entails and shift the emphasis to its gourmet credentials. The chic new decor features crisp tablecloths, warm lighting and flock wallpaper in subtle tones of sand, gold and black. Careful thought has gone into the menu, which picks and chooses from a variety of global cuisines. Daily specials make it even more difficult to choose. Thai tempeh falafel with papaya salad sang out with fresh zingy flavours, while breaded ricotta managed to be delicate rather than bland. The seasonal menu could include seaweed and Japanese pickle salad, or halloumi with wild rice and pistachios. The chef’s salad is a reliable favourite: an almost overwhelming platter of lemony artichokes, juicy caper berries, crisp marinated tofu, alfalfa sprouts and more. Fajita towers showed that Mexican food can be light if done properly; this rendition featured tomatillo sauce, green mango and smoky pinto beans. Desserts, like cardamom panna cotta, are similarly sophisticated. As a special-occasion venue, Manna is a cut above most other meat-free contenders.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009