Restaurants

Wagamama is still the mother of all noodle bars. Since starting life in this Bloomsbury basement in 1992, it has grown to a network of more than 80 restaurants around the globe with its clever concept of no bookings, wooden communal tables, bench seating, electronic ordering, and a menu of japan-easy noodle soups and side dishes that come in no particular order. These days, the Streatham Street branch lacks the smartness of newer siblings, but its still sardine-packed with local workers and shoppers who give it the look and feel of a bustling office canteen. The food is an easygoing mixed bag of fill-em-up, get-em-out fare running from the ubiquitous edamame to the popular laksa-like kare noodle dishes. Our Wagamama ramen (egg noodles, chicken, prawns and fish in soup) came in a generous portion, but the chicken was bland and the single prawn overcooked. Chicken yakitori had more punch, thanks mainly to the feisty sauce, while a special of grilled sea bass on rice worked well in spite of the aggressively pickled vegetables. Thrill-seekers should finish on the tamarind and chilli pavlova.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008