Restaurants

This chain of noodle bars has become an international phenomenon, with branches as far afield as Cyprus, Boston and New Zealand. It all kicked off here, in the basement of an office block in Bloomsbury, a hop and a skip from the British Museum. All the UK Wagamamas serve the same menu: rice plate meals and Japanese ramen, soba and udon noodles, cooked teppanyaki-style on a flat griddle or simmered in huge bowls of spicy soup, all served in double-quick time. The Wagamama concept has been widely copied but rarely beaten. For one thing, the use of high-quality ingredients raises the chain above many of its imitators. We were impressed by the cut of the chargrilled steak, served on a bed of soba tossed with pak choi and sweet soy sauce. We also got a kick from the ebi raisukaree: perfectly cooked tiger prawns in a Thai-influenced coconut soup that burst into life with a squeeze of fresh lime. How much you enjoy Wagamama will depend on how much you like canteen-style dining. At this branch, diners share long bench tables in a huge panelled dining room not unlike a school refectory.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009