Restaurants

Hung with noren screens and paper lanterns, this homely restaurant feels as if it could have been airlifted from a Tokyo side street. Diners sit elbow to elbow around the sushi bar and charcoal grill, or squeeze around tables on the ground floor and in the basement. Yes, it can get cramped, but don’t let that put you off. The food is spot-on and the atmosphere convivial – aided by a good selection of saké, shochu and Japanese beers. Izakaya fare rules here, including a long yakitori menu. Skewered asparagus and chicken livers were suffused with flavour from the charcoal grill. Adventurous diners might like to sample the ox tongue and chicken gizzards. Then there are broths and hotpots, noodles, sushi, grilled fish… the list goes on and on. Customers (couples and groups, some Japanese) may radiate a certain Hampstead smugness, but staff are friendly – although service can be slow. On leaving, we noted the display of letters from satisfied celebrity customers, but you don’t have to be famous to come away happy from a meal here.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008