Restaurants

This nondescript-looking, family-run, traditional fish and chip shop is deserving of its near-cult following. Unpretentious, unreconstructed decor consists of Formica tables and minimal adornment (other than various certificates of quality on the walls) and there’s a classic (and extremely busy) takeaway bar next door. The secret’s in the batter – which isn’t batter at all, but matzo meal. It coats the fish in perfect, light crispness without any of the gloopy lining that accompanies regular deep-fried fare. The menu is simple, albeit with a wider than average selection of fish, ranging from cod and haddock to skate and dover sole. All are offered grilled or fried. We loved fried skate and haddock cutlet, crispy on the outside and buttery inside; the chips were real and potatoey, though could have been a touch browner. It’s not cheap, with fish costing up to £19.50, though portions are vast and the house wine comes in bargain-priced £6 carafes. The mushy peas were almost tasteless, but a tomato and red onion salad compensated. Friendly service adds to the likeable vibe.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008