Restaurants

In 2006 this tiny 34-year-old veteran received a sleek makeover from the designers of Wagamama and Gourmet Burger Kitchen. Prices may have increased as a result, but Satay House remains popular with Malaysians, including the royal family, who appear to regard it as a home from home. The new design, led by stencil cuts of the countrys national flower (the hibiscus), supports rather than detracts from the food which remains exemplary. The satay, served in the traditional way with cucumber, onion, rice cubes and a fantastic peanut sauce, continues to be a treat. The nasi lemak (coconut rice), with its fiery prawn sambal and crisp accompaniments (roasted peanuts, deep-fried anchovies), also remains the best in town. We loved the golden squares of roti telur (Malaysian bread with egg and onion) and adored the richly flavoured rendang daging, where large cubes of beef had seemingly melted into the accompanying spices. Bursting at the seams, we finished with a comforting glass of es kacang: a pleasingly sweet and refreshing mix of shaved ice, rose syrup, red beans, evaporated milk and jelly. Tucked down a residential side street, this is one of Londons culinary wonders.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008