Situated (apparently since 1871) just near enough to Covent Garden Piazza to be a tourist trap, this corner café has prices that reflect its location – charging from £15 for fish and chips, and £5 for a fish cake, sausage or saveloy. It’s enough to make any Londoner think twice, and yet still they come. Fish, whichever species you decide on, is clearly fresh and flaky, but can be disappointing in size once the crispy batter has been negotiated.
Our chips, fried in groundnut oil, were so randomly shaped we suspected the cutter had been distracted from his job; they were dry and bland too. Nevertheless, the minimalist menu also yielded side dishes of coleslaw and mushy peas that were of a decent standard. To cope with the crowds, the management seem to opt for over-staffing, but service on our visit was efficient and unobtrusive. That said, expect a sense of being rushed if you arrive at a popular time of day.