Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
Famed as a celeb hangout and favourite of Princess Diana, San Lorenzo tries to create an air of upmarket intimacy with its basement setting and mix of eclectic artwork, yet somehow remains safe and square. Food is trad Italian, with a tendency – on our most recent visit – to arrive in huge portions with slightly disconcerting haste. A starter of tuna carpaccio was a large plateful, swathed in rocket and diced tomatoes, and drowning in olive oil dressing, with the result that we couldn’t discern any tuna flavour. Calamari fritti was similarly oversized, and rubbery: OK for a beach café, but not a dish for which you’d expect to pay £14.50. Things improved with a main course of rabbit, which had good depth of flavour and came in a rich jus; a big pool of buttery polenta was less appetising. Halibut alla griglia was an old-fashioned-looking assembly of fish, laid out alongside asparagus, a single white potato covered in dark-green bits of herb, and large sticks of plain boiled carrots; the fish was a little overcooked and lacking in flavour. Inflated prices added to our dissatisfaction; the halibut was £25.50. San Lorenzo does engender a slight sense of occasion, and staff were professional, but food was at best indifferent.
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