Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
This newish addition to the west London slew of Polish/east European eateries belies its High Street location with something of a timeless east European club room feel, all brick, dark wood and solid leatherette. A cheery bar proffers the reassuring sight of multicoloured vodkas – the best way to start and finish a meal. Frozen rhubarb vodka proved an appetite-inducing aperitif; earthy beetroot the perfect foil to pungent pickled herring; a deeply fruity, tart blackcurrant version terrific with ice-cream or coffee.
The young, friendly Polish couple who run Tatra are intent on injecting a touch of modernity to the anticipated stolid, traditional fare. So, while beef and smoked sausage goulash was as hearty and plate-filling as the golabki (cabbage stuffed with rice and pork), and potato pancakes the size of generous saucers made up for the relative lightness of smoked salmon, starters were a daintier proposition, and curiously garnished with streaks of balsamic glaze and herb infused olive oil – which added little save eye appeal to nicely plump and butter-sauced pelmeni (Siberian dumplings), or an enlightened take on kaszanka (black pudding). Desserts are rich, sweet and unambitious; ice-box sorbets provide little competition to the toothsome caramel vodka.
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