Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
Chef Agnar Sverrisson is from Iceland, but an Icelandic theme is more overt in the decorative detail – ice and fire paintings on the walls, and striking crockery in designs evoking rock and lava – than it is in Texture’s very good fish-oriented food.
The culinary influences are more broadly Scandinavian, and the ingredients are sourced for flavour and quality rather than slavish far-northern provenance. Veal comes from England, for example, and quail from Anjou – but king crab hails from Norway and lamb, when in season, from Iceland’s unique pastures.
Sverrisson surrounds these lynchpins prettily with mounds, puffs, puddles and scatterings of supporting ingredients. He infuses the whole with tastes familiar and teasingly obscure: salmon with mustard sauce recalled the berry wood in which it was (barely) smoked; Icelandic cod carried an undertow of tundra herbs. Eat carefully: the many flavours, ideas and elements can end up combining into something of a soup.
The environment – a grand, high-ceilinged room with elaborate mouldings and well-spaced soft leather seating – and the assured service (though at the bar slightly inexpert) are on the approachable side of haute.
That Texture is related to wine specialists 28°-50° is obvious from the lovingly compiled list, which has exceptional sections on riesling and pinot noir (worldwide) and some memorable bottles for under £40, as well as a range of champagnes offered at the bar.
Texture 34 Portman Street
020 7224 0028
- Opening hours:
Bar Open noon-midnight, lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses £13.50-£85. Set lunch £19.90 2 courses, £24.90 3 courses. Restaurant Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat
Tube: Marble Arch tube
Main courses £27.50-£31.50. Set lunch £19.90 2 courses, £24.90 3 courses. Set meal £72-£76 tasting menu (£62 vegetarian)
- 34 Portman Street
- 020 7224 0028
- 34 Portman Street
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away. Reservations required. Vegetarian dishes. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire
Business. Drinks. Wine buffs. Eating out. Creative cooking. Fine dining. Unique. Unique London
- Type of event: