Texture

Restaurants

Restaurants and cafés

Marylebone

Luxury

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Tue Oct 16 2012

Chef Agnar Sverrisson is from Iceland, but an Icelandic theme is more overt in the decorative detail – ice and fire paintings on the walls, and striking crockery in designs evoking rock and lava – than it is in Texture’s very good fish-oriented food.

The culinary influences are more broadly Scandinavian, and the ingredients are sourced for flavour and quality rather than slavish far-northern provenance. Veal comes from England, for example, and quail from Anjou – but king crab hails from Norway and lamb, when in season, from Iceland’s unique pastures.

Sverrisson surrounds these lynchpins prettily with mounds, puffs, puddles and scatterings of supporting ingredients. He infuses the whole with tastes familiar and teasingly obscure: salmon with mustard sauce recalled the berry wood in which it was (barely) smoked; Icelandic cod carried an undertow of tundra herbs. Eat carefully: the many flavours, ideas and elements can end up combining into something of a soup.

The environment – a grand, high-ceilinged room with elaborate mouldings and well-spaced soft leather seating – and the assured service (though at the bar slightly inexpert) are on the approachable side of haute.

That Texture is related to wine specialists 28°-50° is obvious from the lovingly compiled list, which has exceptional sections on riesling and pinot noir (worldwide) and some memorable bottles for under £40, as well as a range of champagnes offered at the bar.

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Address:
Texture 34 Portman Street
Marylebone
London
W1H 7BY

Phone:
020 7224 0028
Website:
www.texture-restaurant.co.uk
Opening hours:
Bar Open noon-midnight, lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat. Main courses £13.50-£85. Set lunch £19.90 2 courses, £24.90 3 courses. Restaurant Lunch served noon-2.30pm, dinner served 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat
Transport:
Tube: Marble Arch tube
Price:
Main courses £27.50-£31.50. Set lunch £19.90 2 courses, £24.90 3 courses. Set meal £72-£76 tasting menu (£62 vegetarian)
Map
1. Texture
  - 34 Portman Street
    Marylebone
    London
    W1H 7BY
  - 020 7224 0028
  - www.texture-restaurant.co.uk
  - 51.514720,-0.156822

Categories:
Food and drink
Facilities:
Restaurant and bar facilities. Take away. Reservations required. Vegetarian dishes. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire
Occasions:
Business. Drinks. Wine buffs. Eating out. Creative cooking. Fine dining. Unique. Unique London
Type of event:
Parties

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(5 ratings)

Absolutely superb!

Derek Forder Wed Aug 1 2012
Rated as: 5/5
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Although it's not bad it is quite joyless. Both the food and the wine list, like the decor, try to iron out so many rough corners that they end up being dangerously close to bland, quite accomplished but ultimately not very interesting. We had the fish tasting menu which list several interesting ingredients, but the only thing that really tasted of anything was the liquid the scallop was in, which tasted slightly of either unreduced wine or vinegar not really the wasabi citrus it promised. It would perhaps of all worked for me if it was still the late 90's but things have moved on since. However if expensive and inoffensive is your thing, give it a go.

Mark Fri May 4 2012
Rated as: 2/5
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