This sophisticated Modern European restaurant is fronted by Icelander Aggi Sverrisson, former head chef at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir. It’s popular with smart corporate groups on elastic expense accounts. The dining area, sited in a spacious Georgian room, is furnished in neutral colours, enlivened by pastel-green leather upholstery, modern art and striking floral arrangements. A light-filled bar sets the scene with an exhaustive champagne selection.
Clean-cut flavours characterise the menu. Precision-cooked Norwegian king crab provided a globally inspired tease of chunky crab meat, set against a backdrop of warm ginger broth spiked with wasabi and crunchy roasted garlic. Delicately smoked salmon fillet with pickled vegetables and diced apple worked a treat with peppery horseradish cream, cucumber granita and aromatic sorrel for an orchestrated blend of textures, temperatures and sweet, tangy flavours. It’s not all about fish and seafood, though; meat main courses are just as distinctive.
Milk-fed veal strips, cooked to perfect pinkness, were partnered by Jersey Royals, summery artichokes and a delectable sherried jus enriched with plump morels. Updating a 1,000-year tradition of partnering Icelandic skyr (soft cheese) with rhubarb, dessert teamed the duo with crunchy caramelised rye crumbs for a fitting finale. Service is utterly professional.
Cooking this good doesn’t come cheap, but there’s a more affordable set menu at lunchtime.